Shane,
Have you looked at Richard goods bushings? I have been using them for
years and am well satisfied. His kit comes with a number of washers so
you can offset the trailing arms any way you want (they have different
amounts of offset that the steel sleeve fits into). It is late so I may
not be making sense. Seems like I paid about 75$ for his but they are
well worth it from an engineering stand point. I personally prefer the
hardest material possible in my suspension (The SCCA won't let me run
metal).
How is the motor coming? Are you going with the 2.7 liter up grade? What
pistons will you use?
Mike Munson
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-6pack@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-6pack@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Shane Ingate
Sent: Friday, November 15, 2002 1:50 PM
To: 6 Pack
Subject: Prothane vs. nylatron bushings for trailing arm
All,
I've searched the archives, and could not find the solution to this
question.
While it is well-accepted that nylatron bushings in the trailing arm do
improve control of motion of the arm, I have, however, heard from *one*
trusted authority that the nylatron bushings start to collapse after 2-3
years.
Anyone like to comment on the longevity (I mean more than 5-10 years) of
these bushings?
I'm thinking I'll stick to Prothane poly bushings for the rear, to match
the
Prothane bushings I have up front. TRF sells them for $120 for a
complete
set for the rear, but I have found that www.eshocks.com sell the same
set
for $70.
Personally, I highly recommend Prothane bushings for the front. They are
a
win-win upgrade in that they provide better control than stock rubber,
will
last 2-5 times longer than rubber (if one believes the advertising),
with no
obvious change in ride quality. Some people complain that poly bushings
squeak, but after 4 years of driving my cars (daily) , I've not heard a
whimper. This may be due to the care in which I installed the bushings:
1) if the bushing was split, I inserted one half, then packed the
outer
shell with grease before inserting the second half.
2) in all cases, I scored four 1-2mm deep valleys into the bushing,
both
around and along the bushing, and filled it with grease before
insertion.
3) wherever possible, I tapped the bushing holder with a grease
zerk, so
that if it does start to squeak, I can pump some more of Prothane's
grease
into it.
Shane Ingate unsprung in Maryland
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