In response to Randal's point on the hydraulic throw out bearing, I just
talked to Herman [having just sent my $1155 check last Friday] regarding
the two points raised. Here is his retort [as best as I can summarize
it]:
1) What happens when the hydraulics start to leak ? (Hint : pull the
transmission).
There is always a trade off in anything we select. He agrees a leak
could happen, and you would have to pull the tranny to fix it. He does
pressure test the steel lines and bearings he sells before he sends
them, so there has been at least his quality control. I presume Howie
Racing who supplies these bearings also has good QA. I bet the
incidents of leaks will be far less than broken fork bolts and failed
OEM TR bearings.
2) How do you adjust the TOB (hint ...) I found it very difficult to
believe, but at last year's Triumphest, Herman stated the bearing had to
be
shimmed towards the clutch, and shims removed as the clutch wears.
He talked at length to Howie. These are race bearings. Howie
recommends a slight preload for optimal performance. So if you were
using this setup for racing, you might want to adjust the preload every
so often. For street use it is no problem if there is no preload. The
bearings work fine with a sixteenth to an eight gap according to Howie.
Net/net, there is no real problem here.
I will be doing a few things to my "lapping day" TR this winter in an
attempt to take it from the 130HP I now have at the rear wheels to
significantly more. What I am doing is: Going from British Parts
Northwest provide Piper "S2" cam [270 degrees, 112 lobe separation, open
at 25 close at 65 on intake, .410 lift at valve] to their "D5" grind
which is 295 degrees .440 lift, 108 degree lobe separation, 34-66
open/close and nearly 80 degrees of overlap -- lots of high end, not
much idle!]; 1.5:1 roller rockers, heavier valve springs, tubular push
rods from TSI, head ported, valves cutback, valve seats radiused,
current free flow [Pacesetter, I think] headers Jet Hot ceramic coated,
single 2.5 inch exhaust [to replace the pacesetter duels I have], 34mm
chokes in the Webbers from the 30s that are there now, the Toyota tranny
and the Richard Good Nissan Z diff conversion [4.11:1 limited slip].
[That is why the 5 speed, expect to need to be out of 4th a lot more
with the diff, and afraid the OD is gonna blow up one of these days].
Wish I had done cam bearings when I did the block last year -- but given
the amount I drive the car I should get a few years out of it before the
cam/springs cause serious problems for the journals.
Once the work is done I'll spend some time on the Dyno to dial it in,
then off to the track[s] in the spring. Up date on how the mechanical
work goes, the dyno results, and the track experience to come! [This
last year was spent dialing in the suspension and brakes and I'm real
pleased with those results, now I just want more power/speed to reel in
some of those Bimmers and older Porsche's I run with].
Chuck
[demime 0.99d.1 removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of
Chuck.Arnold.vcf]
|