I'd recommend getting a new adjuster since they're reasonably cheap. also,
when you try to remove the nuts to take off the old adjuster, they'll
probably break off too ...
:)
re the wheel cylinder, if you're being thrifty it's probably worth getting
the old one tapped out and replacing the bleeder screws. But I'd look inside
it first to see if the bore is clean and also find out what a machine shop
will charge. If it's more than $10, I'd replace the whole thing.
Also, I have vowed that before I ever do anything to my brakes again, I will
have ordered a complete set of new brake lines, with fittings, so when the
old ones break off during removal, I have replacements in hand.
three other tips about brakes.
--if I'm even THINKING about unscrewing bleeder valves, nuts, etc., I spray
'em with Liquid Wrench a few times, preferably a week or two before I try to
loosen them.
--if you don't have them yet, a set of flare nut wrenches helps reduce the
odds of rounding out brake lines. you can get a cheap set from Harbor
Freight Tools.
--last but not least, the bleeder valves are different for front and rear
brakes.
--Graham
-----Original Message-----
From: Acekraut11@aol.com [mailto:Acekraut11@aol.com]
Sent: Saturday, September 21, 2002 7:26 PM
To: 6pack@autox.team.net
Subject: Rear Brake Questions...
Hi everyone, hindsight is 20/20 vision. I would have waited a couple days
to start working on the rear brakes had I known the outcome, especially
considering there is a Tribute to Convertibles at the Owls Head
Transportation Museum in Owls Head, Maine tomorrow. Anyways, I started this
morning, took apart the passenger side, ended up with two problems. The
first was that one of the nuts on the adjuster assembly was so rusted that
despite Liquid Wrench, removal took off one of the nuts and part of the
bolt. It still can be used, but obviously needs to be repaired. The
question is, can a new bolt be put on the assembly via drilling out the old
one and putting in a new one, or am I better off paying $20 for a new
adjuster assembly. Unfortunately, I dont own a tap and die set so I will be
trying to find someone local if that is the better option. Secondly, the
bleeder screw on the rear wheel cylinder was partially rounded over, and
after trying to get it loose I understood !
why since it was frozen to the cylinder and broke off during the removal
process. Hence, same question for the wheel cylinder as the adjuster
assembly. Can the remainder of the bleeder screw be drilled out etc. or
should a new wheel cylinder be ordered. I couldnt do any more on the
passenger wheel so I moved to the drivers side, only to discover that I have
the same problem with the wheel cylinder on that side. Only I didnt get the
chance to break the bleeder screw myself, since it was already done by the
PO, but also, the brake pipe that goes from the wheel cylinder to the hose
has the nut that attaches to the wheel cylinder mostly rounded over, and it
also appears to be unwilling to part company with the wheel cylinder either.
Suggestions? Or, for the drivers side, is it just better to buy a new
cylinder, and brake line?. Thanks in advance all.
PS. Anyone going to Owls head who HAPPENS to have a spare wheel cylinder
and HAPPENS to be passing nearby. Well, you can see I at least havent lost
my sense of humor...
Aaron Cropley
'71 TR6 CC63681
Topsham, Maine
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