Well, I like a good obscure technical discussion as well as the next guy,
especially if it threatens to erupt into a flame war and doesn't involve
fuel injection, so I'm jumping in with my two bits:
IMHO (and contrary to some other posts by my esteemed fellow listers) I
believe it WOULD help slightly if you shimmed out the physical location of
the slave cylinder to remove any "slack" in the system (ie worn clevis pin
holes).
If we agree that the spring always pulls back the piston of the slave
cylinder to the same point in the cylinder, regardless of the cylinder's
location, then that becomes Point A.
Shimming the cylinder so it is physically located farther toward the rear of
the car puts that location at Point A plus 1/8 inch (or whatever the amount
of "slack" is that you have eliminated).
When you step on the clutch, you are no longer using the first 1/8 inch of
piston travel to take up the "slack." So your full 1/2 inch of piston
movement is being applied directly to the fork, throwout bearing, etc.
This also could compensate modestly for any slack inside the clutch case if
it exists (for example, any space between the throwout bearing and the
fingers on the clutch disc)
I agree that such shimming does not affect the total travel range of the
piston. And I also agree the best solution is new parts.
Graham
-----Original Message-----
From: James Franks [mailto:jimmble@adelphia.net]
Sent: Wednesday, August 21, 2002 11:38 AM
To: jay_welch@juno.com
Cc: Six pack
Subject: Re: Clutch Problem Discussion
Jay,
All you can do for a worn clevis and pin is repair and/or replace the
worn parts. Shimming won't work, and neither will a spring. (All that
will happen is the slack will be taken up at the beginning of the
stroke, and the spring will drag the arm back the same distance on the
return. Net gain= 0. )
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: <jay_welch@juno.com>
To: <6pack@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 21, 2002 9:16 AM
Subject: Re: Clutch Problem Discussion
> Hello All,
>
> My thoughts are that the addition of a 1/4" to 3/8" shim where the
slave
> attaches to the plate might make up for worn clevis pins/holes between
> the clutch pedal and the rod??? Would I be correct in that
assumption??
>
> Jay Welch, Abington MA
> Secretary, "Cape Cod British Car Club"
> http://clubs.hemmings.com/capecodbritish/
> 1973 TR6 driver, 1971 TR6 project
> 1989 Mustang GT someday morphing into a Factory Five '65 Roadster
>
>
> On Wed, 21 Aug 2002 05:42:38 -0700 (PDT) michael lunsford
> <mblunsfordsr@yahoo.com> writes:
> > Jim Franks wrote:
> >
> > <Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2002 09:49:19 -0400
> > From: "James Franks" <jimmble@adelphia.net>
> > Subject: Re: Clutch Problem
> >
> > <Mike,
> >
> > <Moving the slave cylinder, or adding washers, or lengthening the
> > pushrod
> > does NOT change the travel range of the slave cylinder piston. It
> > may
> > move the travel to an unworn area in the slave cylinder bore, which
> > is
> > the only potential benefit of doing this. ( I have gained a few
> > years
> > service from a bad slave this way) With new or unworn parts,
> > assemble
> > as
> > designed for best result>
> >
> > My response to the above is that I know that the range of the slave
> > cylinder does not change with these alterations. The suggested
> > changes result in the slave cylinder being in a position that takes
> > up any slackness between the pushrod and the initial disengagement
> > of the throw out bearing fork to the clutch. This idea is identical
> > to the fact that the adjustment of the rear brake shoes to the point
> > where they are closer to the drums results in less travel in the
> > brake pedal. This may not be the actual problem but it is a lot
> > easier to check/try this idea than to remove the transmission to
> > check the fork/throw out bearing/clutch. I learned this lesson the
> > hard way by putting the slave on the wrong side of the plate during
> > my restoration-BTDT. Good Luck.
> >
> > Mike Lunsford, 1970 TR6
> > HotJobs, a Yahoo! service - Search Thousands of New Jobs
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