it's not entirely clear from your message (at least to me) if the perceived
problem is incorrect toe-in, or incorrect camber (or both)
toe-in is whether the wheels, when viewed from above, point very slightly
toward the center of the car (like being pigeon-toed). On most cars (not
sure about TRs), there's supposed to be very slight toe-in, but the effect
is so slight that it's hard to see without measuring the difference in
distance between the front edges of the tires and the rear edges of the
tires.
So I think you're probably talking about camber, which refers to the angle
of the wheels when viewed from the rear: do the tops of the wheels lean out
-- away from the car -- or lean in?
on older TRS with sagging springs, the tops of the wheels lean in, producing
the famous "squat."
on fresh new springs with no weight, it would be normal for the wheels to
lean out until the car is loaded.
frankly, I'm not sure you've got a problem, assuming that all the chassis
repairs were made correctly, and that you measured along the way, which it
sounds like you did.
but before you put the body on, is there any way you can load the rear end
with a few hundred pounds to see if the situation improves?
Graham
-----Original Message-----
From: Richard Seaton [mailto:rsh17@msn.com]
Sent: Monday, August 12, 2002 10:47 PM
To: Web_disscusion List
Subject: Rear Suspension Blues?
Six Packers,
Finally after repairing my frame and installing new bushes and up rated
springs from TRF, the frame is on all four wheels again, but that's where
the
trouble begins. Note- trailing arm boxed sections, lower cruciform and other
pieces were replaced ( see web page if interested). I was very careful in
putting theses sections in and used a strong back to keep the frame from
flexing.
It's just a bare frame sans engine, trans, and body. Unloaded that is.
When
I look at the rear wheels the lower edge (Toe In?) is in A LOT more than the
top of the tire. The leading edge of the tire is in a lot to compared to the
back of the tire. I know shims will cure some of this as will the weight of
the drive line and body, but things look way out of kilter. I messed with
the
shims by removing all or adding up to five at each bracket to see the
effects,
but the wheels didn't change that much.
I've put a straight edge across the forward end of the trailing arm boxes
perpendicular to the frame (perpendicular to the Datum line) and it looks
fine. No drooping of the frame out riggers. Then compared and measured the
left and right points of the frame where the bumper brackets would attach
(front and rear) and there was only 1/4" difference between the left and
right sides. I didn't compare the front to the rear, since the frame was
made
with an upwards bend at the rear.
What is normal (?) for the rear of an unloaded frame? I'm sure things will
settle some, but how much is to be expected. Should I not even worry about
it
till the frame is loaded up?
Oh, yeah, I've double checked the trailing arm brackets and I have one
notch
ones to the inside with the notches up and two notched ones to the outside
notches also up. It is a '69 so the three notched ones aren't used.
Richard Seaton
RSH17@msn.com
View My restoration @ (http://groups.msn.com/Richards69TR6Restoration)
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