I suffered horribly from engine overheating until I had a high density core
stuck in the radiator. A friend who owns a shop put in a new core using all
the original outer parts. Last week in the 90s I sat in a bumper-bumper
lineup for 40 minutes creeping along. The engine never even lifted the
temperature level from 1/4 guage. So it was still operating with the
thermostat not even full open.
Cheers,
Mark Hooper
-----Original Message-----
From: Peter Macholdt
To: 6pack list
Sent: 01/07/02 12:26 PM
Subject: Timing and overheating
After my winter program of modifications, I now find that the 250 is
overheating in warm weather. It is fine at cruising speed, but at idle
in
traffic the gauge begins to creep up to red. I've got a electric fan
that
helps, but not enough. The cooling system is free from crud (only about
8K
on a rebuilt engine. I'm running at GP2 cam, 9.5:1 compression with a
sport
header and 2 1/4' pipe out the back.
The timing is set at 10 degrees BTDC (about 2 degrees ATDC with the
retard
connected). I'm wondering what will happen if I retard the timing to
say 5
degrees BTDC. What will it do to my performance (which is great now)
and
will it help in any significant way with the overheating.
Follow-up questions:
Does Water Wetter do anything to reduce temps (in practice, not theory)?
Is it possible to have the stock radiator re-cored to provide more
cooling
area?
Why doesn't an oil cooler cool the engine? I thought that one of the
primary functions of oil was to transfer heat, yet I've been told that
an
oil cooler doesn't cool the engine much (street car).
TIA,
Peter
'68 TR250 (love the performance, tired of planning routes to avoid
sitting
in traffic)
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