Dick, since my undated shop supplement is obviously for an earlier
2 pot set up, do you happen to have the actual factory specs
(static and dynamic) for my 1974 one pot ignition timing?
Right now going by ear, I'm at 8 BTDC idling with pot connected
which goes to 36 BTDC at 3000 rpm and shows 26 BTDC idling with
pot disconnected/plugged.
Runs A1 and no pinging, but that 26 number is way off from your
suggested 12 max. My last setting was retarded by 12 degrees
relative to the all the above and was sluggish and had the exhaust
leak sound at idle. I checked the damper (without a micro gauge).
Mike L
60A,67E,59Bug,74TR6
----- Original Message -----
From: Sally or Dick Taylor <tr6taylor@webtv.net>
To: Michael Lupynec <mlupynec@globalserve.net>
Cc: 6pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
Sent: June 30, 2002 11:09 PM
Subject: Re: vacuum
> Mike--- Ignition timing can cause confusion when one is trying
to set it
> with vacuum advance and retard lines connected. Sometimes
they're not
> working, or connected to the right source. (The two pot
canisters are
> for the early edition TR6s)
>
> I regard "static" timing being done with the engine not running,
and
> using a test light. It is better by far to use an inductive
timing
> light, to pick up the actual timing as indicated by the timing
pulley
> marks.
>
> To hopefully avoid confusion, I prefer to set timing with all
vacuum
> lines disconnected, and plugged. Then set the timing to what
runs best
> for that particular engine. As much as 12 deg. BTDC for
stockers, and
> back as far as 2 deg. BTCD for those with really high cylinder
> pressures. Then reconnect the line(s), if you chose.
>
> Dick
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