I'm new to TR6's, but have just spent 2 months undoing 60K miles
of DPO maintenance.
You will be looking for perfect clutch action which is slightly
rare, although engaging near the floor is normal. I am now getting
6.25 inches at the slave pushrod, which I understand is as good as
it gets. Make sure the clutch actuating lever is pointing slightly
forward at rest, as a broken clutch fork pin is common.
You need to hear no clunking from the rear end which can be a
simply a loose shock, trailing arm bolts or a bad shock link all
the way to a hard to repair broken diff mount or any of the 6 u
joints or loose half shaft splines.
Check the rear wheel slop - these have been known to depart the
vehicle, as per recent threads.
If your piston compression is OK, you may now hope not to have to
pull the engine/tranni. The list says a leaky leather pinion seal
can be replaced in situ, but it sure looks tough enough to me.
Never buy rust unless you want to become Eternal Metal Man. The
frame has layered construction which in British means water/salt
trap = punking of structural areas.
Here's what I found easy enough - all electrics diagnosed out and
were made functional without much mulla. The original Hooter
headlamp switch is junk design and the good replacement part
requires prying out the reverse screw middle brkt and then
dremelling the panel backing metal to the same size as the wooden
hole - give this half an hour. Working behind the middle of the
instrument panel is a bitch - thank G for the ashtray hole. My
broken blower motor is never coming out until I replace/restore
the instrument panel.
The rear end squat I cured with new rubber packing pieces and
machined metal half inch spacers. Springs came out and in easy and
the car now sits proud with the proper minor camber.
Compared to SU's the Strombergs have more emission systems built
in but with the Buckeye website it's OK.
The PDWA is easily blocked off, if u can live without the
microsecond warning lite. Do not make the front and rear
hydraulically common.
Loose steering rack (rubbers require precompression), ball joints
and front shocks all cheap and easy.
The weak half thrust washers - look for crankshaft end play @ 8
thou - max 15, but these can be gotten at from underneath
As for all cars look at the color of the brake/clutch fluids and
any sign of leaking at master/slave/wheel cylinders.
On mine the front of the head has three bolts (alt brkt,
thermostat hsg) which will NOT budge. Keeping them soaked.
Oh and dem seats, any foam falling out underneath start budgeting
$500.
Brit humour - the old fan belt would not clear out - had to be
cut. The new one barely went in by twisting it sideways. On this
nice long car they were apparently hard up for an extra 1/8 inch
in the engine bay.
Mike L
60A,67E,59Bug
74TR6 (perfect body/frame - working everything else, still have an
exhaust leak after replacing the two gaskets)
----- Original Message -----
From: Ryan Kroelinger <Rkroel@cox.net>
To: <6pack@autox.team.net>
Sent: June 28, 2002 9:28 PM
Subject: What to look for in buying a Tr6
> Hey all, thanks again for all the great responses to my engine
swap
> question. Now to the next one, what should be looked for when
purchasing a
> Tr6? Please share your experiences good and bad. What should
be watched
> out for, and what are good signs?
> Thanks again!
>
> Ryan
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