Sorry to stay hung up on this, but $2500 ON RODS AND PISTONS? I'm not
talking about an E prod race machine here. I'm talking about a street
engine with some extra kick. The stock components can handle this no
problem. There's no need to go overboard spending thousands on exotic
forged alloy stuff. Keep it simple, keep it cheap, and have fun.
Heck, even if my engine blows tomorrow, I could rebuild it again and
still have money left in my pocket, in comparison. If you're running
the car constantly at 7000rpm under wide-open throttle, then I see the
need to get expensive parts. But for the street? No thanks, I'll
pocket the extra cash and throw it into suspension, paint, interior,
etc.
Tim Holbrook
1971 TR6
--- Jim Hill <jrhill@chorus.net> wrote:
> From: "Jim Hill" <jrhill@chorus.net>
> To: "Shane Ingate" <madmax_xx@hotmail.com>, "6 Pack"
> <6pack@autox.team.net>
> Subject: TR6 performance motor
> Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2002 13:48:46 -0500
>
> Shane Ingate wrote:
>
> > It is one thing to pick out some items from a vendors catalog,
> > and yet another to integrate them into a working system.
>
> Absolutely true. As a very rough estimate, a third of the engine
> budget may
> go to making it fast, another third to making it last, and the final
> third
> for development costs. Not everything will work the way the catalogs
> claim,
> not all of those neat-looking speedy bits will work well with each
> other,
> and there's no single formula for building a strong and reliable
> engine.
>
> > If $2500 could build a reliable-and-driveable 170hp TR6
> > motor, we all would have done it years ago, and stock
> > motors would exist only in museums and concourse cars.
>
> It's no trick to spend that $2500 just on the proper rods and pistons
> for
> longevity . . . and the engine still won't produce a single extra
> horsepower. And without a lot of expensive work done to the crank, it
> won't
> last long at the upper reaches of the tach either.
>
> > The performance TR6 motor is expensive to build. For less
> > money, I could easily shoe-horn a GT-40 crate motor, but
> > that is not what I am after.
>
> Exactly: If you want to build a proper Triumph--as opposed to a
> Triumph-bodied Corvette or Mustang--starting with a well prepared
> Triumph
> engine is the only way to go.
>
> Jim Hill
> Madison WI
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