Just a simple thing that no one has mentioned yet. I would suggest
you have to remove the MC and disassemble it to determine if there
is any bore corrosion which leads you to honing (can be done at
home) or more often than not the difficult choice between relining
plus a rebuild kit versus a new MC @ 199 US.
If you have a baby bum mirror smooth bore, then buy a rebuild kit
and carefully go at it.
BTW for those who have not tried it yet, removing the PDW shuttle
valve results in non consistent brake pedal height during braking.
Mike L
60A,67E,59Bug,74TR6
----- Original Message -----
From: Eric Myracle <eric_myracle@hotmail.com>
To: Valerie Stabenow <hlub34a@aeroinc.net>; <6pack@autox.team.net>
Sent: June 9, 2002 8:54 PM
Subject: Re: br.booster rebuild/my experience with it
> Valerie -
>
> Thanks. So...now my question is...can I rebuild the master
cylinder
> myself? I've seen the kits in Moss, and if I recall they're not
> terribly expensive. Or is it generally recommended to just
replace
> the MC instead of rebuilding?
>
> Thanks,
> Eric
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Valerie Stabenow" <hlub34a@aeroinc.net>
> To: <6pack@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, June 09, 2002 5:50 PM
> Subject: Re: br.booster rebuild/my experience with it
>
>
> > I, too, thought I had a bad booster on my 73. However, it was
only
> the MC
> > and a replacement cured all.
> >
> > Valerie Stabenow, 62 MGA MkII, 67 TR4a, 69 XK-E FHC, 73 TR-6,
81
> Corvette
> > Coupe
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Eric Myracle" <eric_myracle@hotmail.com>
> > To: <6pack@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Sunday, June 09, 2002 12:07 PM
> > Subject: brake booster rebuild
> >
> >
> > > Hello list. My '70 TR6 consumes brake fluid pretty rapidly,
but I
> > > find no signs of leakage. I assume maybe the booster is the
> culprit.
> > > Can I rebuild it myself? How difficult is it? Must the
booster
> be
> > > removed from the car to do this?
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > > Eric
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