Terry -
I heartily do NOT recommend the Weber DGV. As I understand it this
carb is really designed for economy and reliability and not for
performance. I am certainly not an expert on the subject, but here is
some anecdotal advice:
I own 3 carbureted cars, all built before 1971: 2 Volvos, and a '70
TR6. The TR6, with original ZS carbs (and admittedly with the lowest
mileage), runs the best and gets the best mpg. The Volvo with its
original twin SU's is a close second, and this car has many more miles
than the TR6. The SU's are great, and I believe over time they will
be more reliable and less troublesome than the ZS's. My other Volvo
has a single Weber DGV conversion, and I hate it. When I got the car
the throttle linkage had not been set up properly, and I suspect that
is the case with the entire carb. I've reworked the linkage, and it's
much better, but I'm not about to remove the carb to adjust when the
secondary valve opens. The main problem is that there's a very
noticeable flat spot before the secondary butterfly starts to open.
Also it's a real pain in cold weather since the choke was never
connected correctly (if you MUST go with a Weber conversion, I
recommend the automatic choke model - I once had a BMW 2002 with this
carb and it went like stink, but like the Volvo there was a noticeable
flat spot between the 2 butterflies). Anyway, just my $.02.
Eric
----- Original Message -----
From: "Terry Geiger" <tgeiger@aitinc.com>
To: <6pack@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 22, 2002 9:45 PM
Subject: Weber DGV advice
> Hi all,
>
> I have a '74 TR6 that I drive on a daily basis. I'm interested in
converting to the dual weber dgv down draft carb kit and was
soliciting experiences from the list. Please reply with good or bad
experiences with these carbs. My goal is to increase the reliability
and driveability of the car. It's a lot of money for me and I'd like
to make sure I'm getting something that is going to work very well.
The car has already been upgraded to electronic ignition, a tr250 cam
and the old model cylinder head (bigger valves, higher compression
ratio, no egr port). The engine is fresh (complete rebuild 2 years
ago) and has good compression, oil pressure, etc. so the bottom end of
the engine should handle some more flow quite well. I am also
preparing to install an original a/c kit that I picked up so reliable
idle with the a/c running is a consideration.
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Terry Geiger
> '74 TR6 Mimosa Yellow
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