Hi Alan,
Before undergoing my wiring upgrade I checked out the following websites:
http://www.team.net/sol/tech/light-up.html
http://lighting.mbz.org/tech/how_to/relays/
http://lighting.mbz.org/faq/
I pretty much followed the advice given by Dan Masters in his TR6
Electrical book. I installed the GM alternator and decided to use a shunt
on the ammeter. I believe that my headlamp current goes through the
ammeter.
Someone already has listed how to calculate the load on the headlamp
circuit. I used the same math. I opted to use the next thickest gauge
(lower number) to allow for high watt (100/80) headlamps when I'm "off
roading" in California;-)
I installed relays after the dimmer switch; physically there are placed
near the fuse box. My new halogen lamps also have a "pilot" lamp,
necessitating some rewiring up front - just spliced into the existing
parking lamp circuit. I unwrapped the wiring harness. Added/remove the
appropriate wires and the wrapped the whole thing up again so it looks
original. I purchased wiring, bullet connectors, fuses, fuse holders and
etc from British Wiring.
For my amp, I used an 8 gauge wire directly from the battery with an
in-line fuse.
If you can make the Julian rally on Saturday, I'll pop the bonnet and you
can see what I did.
Talk to you later.
Dave Stauffacher
Ramona, Ca
1970 TR6 CP51649
The headlights do not go through the ammeter, why not?
A buddy in the San Diego Triumph Club (Dave S, I know you are
out there) installed high power headlights and rewired the harness
from the lights to the fuse box with thicker gauge wire. How much
current do typically headlights draw?
Finally, what is the best way to hook up a stereo amplifier? I would
think it is best to add a separate fuse and hook it directly to the
battery. But again, no accurate indication on the ammeter.
Thanks
Alan
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