John,
Although the compression values are on the low side, I would put sooner
expect your idle problem to be related to carbs, ignition or distributor
before bad rings or valves.
Did you inject a teaspoon of oil in each cylinder after the 'dry' test
to see if the valves are the culprit? Maybe all you need is a top
overhaul. A total rebuild may be (IMHO) unnecessary if you have good
oil pressure, good crank endfloat, and it's running smooth and cool
without knocks or rattles.
If it ain't broke........ drive it!
BTW, why would you expect lower compression with a denser atmosphere at
sea level than at a higher elevation? I would expect the opposite. No
flame intended, just curious.
Good Luck, Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lumia, John" <jlumia@ball.com>
To: <6pack@autox.team.net>; "'triumphs'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, April 29, 2002 11:52 AM
Subject: Low compression
> I recently measured engine compression in my 6 and found cylinder
> pressures ranging from 75 to 110 (note that I'm a mile above sea
level,
> so I would expect pressures to be somewhat lower anyway). I have very
> good oil pressure (25 lbs at hot idle, 65-75 when hot), but the engine
> is a bit uneven at idle, maybe plus or minus 100 RPM, which it has
done
> since I bought it 4000 miles ago. Ideally I would like to continue to
> drive the car this summer and tear down in the fall or winter. Does
> anyone have an opinion if I will risk further damage to this engine if
I
> continue to drive it till then?
>
> John Lumia
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