On question 1: I would recommend buying the upgraded throwout bearing
(Toyota Landcruiser part, available from most TR suppliers). The
regular bearings can fall apart real quick, and replacing is a pain. As
far as pressure plates and center plates, that's a tough one. Don't
know if I can really address that...
On question 2: I love the solid rack mounts that I have, and the
steering is not at all twitchy. I think the stock setup is junk, I've
never seen a stock setup that held the rack completely steady.
However, I've heard that the Moss style solid mount is not good. It
uses a U bolt which has low surface area and is prone to cracking. TRF
sells a better mount (made by Goodparts). This is the one I have. No
problems after several years of use.
On question 3: I like the Rimmer sport system (header, single 2.25"
pipe, 2.25" sport muffler). It sounds great. As with any header, a
bit of fitting is required, but it's a heck of a lot better fit than
the Monza header. If you're looking to do exhaust only (keep the stock
header), I think the Falcon stainless dual sport system is nice. The
Monza system is too loud (and very droaning on highway travel) in my
opinion.
On question 4: I have the Crane XR700, which works well. I also like
the Petronix, it's so simple and clean, and costs about the same. If
you're looking do some performance mods, you might want to look at MSD.
Tim Holbrook
1971 TR6
--- Michael Lupynec <mlupynec@globalserve.net> wrote:
> From: "Michael Lupynec" <mlupynec@globalserve.net>
> To: "6pack" <6pack@autox.team.net>
> Subject: first TR
> Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 21:14:17 -0400
> Reply-to: "Michael Lupynec" <mlupynec@globalserve.net>
>
> Subscribed today and jumping in with both feet.
>
> I just bought a rust free, white on tan, Canadian 74 TR6 with 60K
> miles. Flawless prep/repaint 8 years ago. Interior is vgc, but
> engine compartment has black undercoat oversprayed on everything.
> All original except for a stereo radio/speakers and some smog
> vacuum lines pulled.
>
> She sputtered a bit on the 60 mile trip home (seriously cracked
> Lucas cap and dry dizzy shaft). The steering rack freeplays
> sideways about an inch and there is that clunk in the back.
> Electrics are 50% functional (normal you say?) and #4 is weak on a
> cold compression test. Of course the clutch action is dubious, but
> no slip.
>
> With a long non maintenance history, this TR6 has survived and
> still runs strong. I need some list wisdom before I diagnose
> further or order parts for the quick fixes. I am hoping to drive a
> summer before pulling the engine (maybe).
>
> I - Besides being meticulous on the clutch rebuild, linkages and
> crank endfloat
> (a) - are the Moss Borg-Beck or LUK (Laycock) clutch assy's
> acceptable?
> (b) - how about the Moss master and slave
> (c) - is it good practice to replace the .70 inch with the earlier
> .75 inch master bore diameter?
>
> 2 - Some have said the solid steering rack mounting kit from Moss
> for $37 makes handling too twitchy. Or will the $5 replacement
> rubbers do well enough?
>
> 3 - The muffler is gone, pipes are semi OK.
> (a) - what aftermarket muffler bolts in?
> (b) - are there any favorite not too radical Stromberg compatible
> full systems?
>
> 4 - Finally - about that 5 thou wobbly dizzy shaft. Which
> electronic replacement unit do TR6's like?
>
> Hopefully not too many questions for a first post, but any input
> at this early stage is very much appreciated.
>
> Mike L, Toronto
> TR6, CF18058U, one book says all CF's had overdrive - so where's
> my OD switch?
> 3 other LBC's
> 1979 hotrod CBX (just sold thru ebay)
> 1975 mint Kawa H2 triple (squeezed on space, thinking to sell)
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