I got fed up with the crunching noises too, so I changed the ring gear.
Pretty easy job.
To get the old one off, I used a tough chisel and a big hammer. Put
the chisel between two teeth on the ring gear, and give it a big wack
with hammer. It should break in two and fall of the flywheel.
Then I put the flywheel in the freezer for a couple days (to shrink it
a bit - high tech cryogenics!!). To install the new ring gear, I
warmed it up thoroughly (and evenly) with a torch to make it a bit
bigger, then picked it up with pliers and it simply dropped onto the
flywheel. The flywheel and ring gear quickly reach an equilibrium
temperature and they become thoroughly attached to one another! No
welding required.
One note, there is a wrong way and a right way to put the ring gear on.
If you look carefully, the gears on the ring gear have a slight bevel
on one edge to help the starter gears feed in nicely. Make sure you
put the ring gear on the flywheel the right way around (and don't
assume that your current ring gear is on correctly!). The bevel on the
ring gear should face the starter.
Tim Holbrook
1971 TR6
--- Ken Davis <ken.davis@attbi.com> wrote:
> hi all -- my ring gear has a number of mashed spots on it, and often
> makes the
> coffee-grinder sound when I start. now, personally, if I'm alone,
> far away
> from people, it really doesn't bother me, but... with people around,
> it's
> embarrassing to grind coffee while trying to start this damn fine
> machine.
>
> I'm pretty successful at lifting out the gearbox these days and I'm
> wondering
> about replacing the ring gear.
>
> Does it replace on the flywheel, or do I need to take the flywheel
> off to
> replace it? From my research it's compression fitted, so with some
> heat and a
> chisel and hammer, I should be able to remove it in car, without
> taking out
> the flywheel. Is this possible / easy, or am I opening up a can of
> worms
> doing it.
>
>
> thanks
>
>
> Ken
> So San Francisco
> 73 TR 6, CF7000U0
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