Hey All;
It's been a while since I've installed a DGV Weber
Carb Kit onto a car, and when I did, it was allways on
Volvos, but the principle is the same. I'm surprized
that Seth's Kit didn't have fittings to hook up the
crankcase ventilation to the front side of one of the
air filter cover plates.
Ok, I'm getting ahead of myself here. Seth what you
have to do is based on one of the following. The area
of the country that you live in and how tight the auto
emmission laws are, and then the other is how you feel
about auto emissions.
First off, you can not cap off the hose that comes out
of the valve cover and used to branch off to the sides
of your old ZS carb. That is your crank case
ventilation system. No matter how good an engine is
put together some air gets past the piston rings and
it starts to pressurize the inside of the engine, you
have to allow an outlet or else the pressure will find
an outlet like the front and rear main seals of the
engine and while relieving itself, it will take a
considerable amount of oil with it. (Free rust
proofing).
If you live in an area that is lax on auto emmissions,
you can just attach a hose to the valve cover vent and
let it hang below the bottom of the engine. All
TR-3's and my 65 TR-4 A are designed this way. But if
you are concerned about emissions, you feed that hose
to the front metal cover of one of the air cleaners.
You can use metal or plastic fittings from a hardware
store to do this. This will dirty up your carb,
because there will be suspended particles of oil in
that air being expelled into that air cleaner. You can
help yourself out by learning how PCV valves work and
fabricate a working PCV installation, I've never
bothered.
Then the next concern of yours was the carcoal
cannister for the evaporative system. Well what would
you think about it if I told you that that system on
your car hasn't been operable for about twenty years.
You have this thirty year old car. Did you know that
on the bottom of the cannister there is supposed to be
a replacable air filter? How often do you think that
was replaced? Once again, all TR-3's and TR-4's the
gas tank was vented to the atmosphere by a hose that
went from the top of the tank to below the bottom of
the car, the fumes were sucked out by the air passing
by the bottom of the car.
On your TR-6 you have rubber hoses running the length
of your car, from the gas tank to the cannister. What
kind of shape are they in. Do you think they still
work after thiry years. They may do, they may don't.
It's been my experience in living in an area that has
very tight emission control laws, that every year when
I bring my vintage cars in, (old Volvos, a 71 240Z, an
old XJ-6 Jag) the techs don't pay attention to the
cannister if you make the lines go somewhere, you just
can't have them hanging. My concern here is that if
you try to hook up to the cannister you may be making
a big vaccum leak on your carb system. Then what's the
point? You just made your engine run bad and emit more
pollutants.
Actually where I live (that's Milwaukee Wisconsin),
the open sided air filters that you probably recieved
with your kit do not pass inspection. We have to
fabricate enclosed air boxes from now on. This is new
here, I encountered this last spring. I work in a shop
that specializes in Vintage English cars, and my boss
took his hotted up Spitfire with DCOE's to the
emission test and was rejected on the grounds that the
air filters were exposed. But the tech's never noticed
that the carcoal cannister wasn't really hooked up to
the carbs or the intake manifold.
But then again, you may have to drill a hole in your
intake manifold, tap it and put in a 'nipple' and run
that vaccum line to your cannister to make the
universe balance out right.
I think that about covers it all, what do you think
all? More imput is allways needed.
Steve J. Daniels.
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