Rob---Nelson's reply covers the options nicely, and his Buckeye website
illustrations are top notch. I will add here what I've found that can
sometimes determine if the fork pin is broken, without taking out the
tranny for inspection. It goes like this.
Take out the SC pushrod clevis pin and pull hard the clutch shaft
operating arm towards the rear of the car, by hand. This will load up
the internal linkage in one direction. Next, gentley push the clutch arm
towards the front of the car, till you feel it bump into solid ground.
All you're doing here is removing designed-in accumulated play. IF you
can now push the clutch shaft farther forward, with effort, you may be
feeling and overcoming the resistance of a broken fork pin. This extra
movement can be 1/8" or more, as measured from the tip of the arm. If it
feels solid with no further movement, My bet would be accumulated play
down in the pedal box.
Given that you have recently replaced the gear box, I am ruling out the
"crunch" you feel when shifting into first and second gear is not
synchro related.
Dick Taylor
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