On Sun, 10 Feb 2002, Hugh Fader wrote:
> Thanks Jeff. I'm at about 59k so the mileage looks about right for thrust
> washers. I noticed the movement when I gave the end bolt a few whacks in an
> attempt to loosen it. Was able to lever the crank back a noticeable amount.
Just for reference, my first lower end rebuild took place at 89,000 miles
and the end-float was well within spec. at that time.
> Two questions:
> 1. How do I determine which size thrust washers to put in?
Easy - with the crank installed, and the pan removed, remove the rear main
cap. Lever the crank one way then the other fore/aft. I like to use the
center main cap as the levering point. Note: you don't have to use much
force to move the crank back and forth.
Now, with the crank in one position (levered forward or aft), place a
feeler gauge between the thrust face and the thrust washer. This is your
end-float. If the number is large (say .010 or more), then you can use the
appropriate oversize thrust washer to take up the slack. Thrust washers
come in .005, .010 and .015 over. There may even be an .030 over, but I've
never used one. Note that you can "mix and match" to get the thrust
end-float just right.
If you've already had the crank reground (or whatever), then you need to
install it and make the measurement as described above.
FWIW, I usually buy a set of "std" and a set od ".005" thrust washers when
I buy my other lower end stuff. Yes, I have a box of unused thrust washers
in the basement. But you never know when you might need them!
> 2. Will it be any easier to do this job while I have the top end and all
> related parts off? Maybe I need the crank pulley in place to answer question
> #1.
No, the job can actually be done with the motor in the car, but if you
have the motor out already, that's as good a time as any to to the job.
> OK, three questions:
>
> 3. Any other maintenace or inspection I should do while I have the sump off?
Just the usual stuff. Make sure there aren't any cracks and that the main
cap saddles aren't "scuffed". Note that main caps only go in one way.
They'll "fit" backwards, but your align bore will be wrong if you don't
install them right. Hint: the numbers are stamped on the caps and the
block for reference.
You _do_ have the Bentley manual... right?
But, contrary to popular believe, you don't need a dial indicator to
measure end-float. It helps a lot, but it's not a requirement for the job.
Feeler gauges work just fine.
> Thanks,
> Hugh
regards,
rml
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