Steve,
BTW means- By the Way.
IMHO- In my humble opinion
YMMV- You're mileage may vary
There are conflicting reports as to having to replace every seal in your
car on a switch-over to Dot 5. Quite a number of respectable TR6
enthusiasts report that flushing the system and being careful when
introducing Dot5 so as not to entrain air bubbles has given satisfactory
service.
I lean on the side of air bubbles being the culprit.
Get some tapered silicone plugs to plug the holes and have at it with a
sandblaster or a grinder w/a wire wheel. Of course, after they're nice and
shiny, powder coat the exterior with clear. They'll look good as new for
years. Fluid coming out of your booster means that it has leaked past your
M/C seals.
The white check valve is only for vacuum purposes, there should be no fluid
in the booster itself, only vacuum. If the motovac (or booster) worked fine
when it was disassembled, it is probably OK. It is unlikely that residual
leaky brake fluid has damaged the diaphragm. The proof is when you put the
unit back on the car and you no longer have power brakes. :}
If you had good pedal when the unit was taken off, I'd go for redoing the
master cylinder first, put it back on and see what you have leak and
pedal-wise. Replacing the check valve should not be
necessary. YMMV. Rebuilding the front calipers is not difficult and
should not require special tools. As with all old hydraulic systems, make
sure that the corrosion present hasn't pocked the system to the point of
not being able to get a real smooth bore. Most serious amateurs have
attempted these jobs with varying success. Depends on the amount of
corrosion present. BTW, ( I couldn't resist), it is not necessary nor
desirable to separate the halves of the calipers merely to rebuild the
seals around the pistons.
Jeff Johnson
'76 TR6
At 11:33 PM 2/7/02 -0500, SEBroerman@aol.com wrote:
>List-
>
>OK, I give. What does BTW stand for? Although I'm from this side "of the
>pond,"
>I haven't been able to figure this one out. It's probably obvious.
>
>I'm rebuilding the hydraulics of my entire brake and clutch systems and I
>want to convert to silicone fluid. I understand that I need to replace every
>seal as the silicone
>fluid is not compatible with the DOT 4 that's in there now. How hard is it to
>rebuild the front calipers? Anything I should be cautious about? Special
>tools required? Also
>while I have the brake and clutch MC's apart, I want to shine them up to
>give 'em their original finish. Any suggestions? I've also got the brake
>servo out and I'm cleaning that up. Some fluid (brake?) came out of the white
>check valve when I turned it upside down. Any chance that this fluid could
>degrade the diaphragm inside the servo? It always seemed to work fine, just
>wanted to ask while I have it out. Should I replace the check valve while I'm
>at it?
>TIA
>
>Steve
>'72 CC75294L
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