On Wed, 28 Nov 2001, Ryan Miles wrote:
> List,
Hello.
> I am about to the stage where I need to order suspension parts for
> my tr250, and I was wondering what the quality difference is between
> the Spax shocks and the Koni shock kit.
As near as I can tell, the Spax shocks are not servicable, e.g. when they
are "spent" they are "spent". The Koni shocks are likely servicable,
meaning you can get them rebuilt if you need to.
However, the Spax shocks can be adjusted while on the car (if you can
position the unit in such a way as you can get a screwdriver in between
the spring and spring-pan to tweak the adjuster. The Konis need to come
out to "twist them" to change the settings.
Both of those shocks are "single adjustable", I forget what you're
adjusting, but I presume it's the "bump" and not the rebound.
Now, if you are in the market for good shocks (like you budgeted for
Koni), then you should give some consideration to Carerra shocks. These
are real racing shocks and you will def. benefit with thier use.
I've been using the Spax in both my cars for quite a while. I'm a
satisfied user of them. If I have some spare $$$ in my "budget" this
winter, I might spring (oh no! a PUN!) for a pair of Carerras in the
front.
> I am going to autocross this
> car, and it will most likely have goodparts nylatron bushings and
> springs (I am not too concerned with "ride quality", I want it to
> handle well)...Are the Koni's worth the extra $2-300.
Autox - YES! If you have autoX questions - fire away. I run an FP TR6 in
the northeast.
> Also has anyone
> used the BPNW rear spax conversion...
You need to approach this conversion carefully - if you intend to run real
race rubber (e.g. Hoosier DOT radial autox tires or Goodyear/Hoosier
slicks), you need to consider the wheel spacing etc for interference. Most
of the tube shock conversions will interfere with the back side of the
tires if you go to reasonable tire widths. I'm talking about the
225/45-15's or 23 x 9 x 15 slix.
Plus - if you go to a tube shock, you are adding unsprung weight to the
rear suspension. Unsprung weight does not help your car perform!
What I suggest is that you get your rear lever shocks rebuilt with "heavy
duty valving". This gets you the low unspring weight of the original setup
and valving more suited to your increased spring rates (with the GoodParts
competition springs). A win-win.
If money is no object (I presume not if you are looking at $80 Spax
shocks!), then a coil-over setup is the best you can do because then you
get infinitely adjustable ride height at all 4 corners and the ability to
jack the weight around to get the "cross weights" just right. This is
_really important_ in a race car. Most of the road racers use a Carerra
setup from my limited observation.
> I called BPNW for the first time
> today, and I was pleasantly surprised with how noce the people are. I
> will probably send some business their way!
They are nice folks. I've sent them a few $$$k over the years.
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Ryan Miles
>
> Ryan
You're welcome,
rml
TR6's Street - CF14111U ; Race - CR1871UO
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