Dick, and list -
Thanks for the advice on my clutch. I replaced the clevis pins at the
clutch pedal and at the clutch fork, and it made a very noticeable
difference. However, the clutch still has less free play than I like,
and it's still hard to engage first gear from rest (reverse is okay -
it now engages without crunching if I select any forward gear while at
rest before selecting reverse). The hole in the forked pushrod on the
inlet of the master cylinder is slightly egg-shaped. Can I replace
this rod without replacing the entire master cylinder?
Thanks,
Eric Myracle
----- Original Message -----
From: Sally or Dick Taylor <tr6taylor@webtv.net>
To: Eric Myracle <eric_myracle@geocities.com>
Sent: Sunday, November 11, 2001 3:44 PM
Subject: Re: new member
> Eric----The TR6 is known for being hard to engage first and reverse
> gears from at rest. Take heart! This is entirely fixable, with the
most
> basic tools. The first thing you get to do is to crawl into the foot
> well and examine the clutch pedal linkage where it pushes the rod
into
> the clutch Master Cylinder. You'll probably find that the short pin
> called the clevis pin (with the cottor pin thru it) has a groove
worn
> into it. Possibly even the pushrod that this pin goes thru is also
worn
> egg-shaped. Both of these two parts are easy to replace with new
ones
> from The Roadster Factory. (TRF)
>
> While you're down there getting to know what all else things look
like,
> look at the clutch pedal boss that the clevis pin goes thru. If this
> bore is also egg-shaped from wear, you may need to drill this hole
out
> to a larger size and put a bushing in it to return it to original
size.
> It's not a big deal to remove the pedal box from the cars interior.
> (You'll see the bolts that hold it in under the hood at the wiper
> motor.)
>
> Don't let the above verbage make you nervous. These cars are very
easy
> work on, and parts are readily available, and not too expensive.
Include
> a good repair manual, such as the one written by Robert Bentley,
> available from TRF, and other sources.
>
> You may already know this but I'll throw this in anyway. The
probable
> reason for the difficult disengagement of the gears is because not
> enough clutch fluid is being passed along from the Master Cylinder
to
> the Slave Cylinder, due mostly from the wear in the pedal box
linkage
> described above. Take care of this, and chances are good that this
will
> solve your shifting problem. In the off-chance there IS NO PLAY in
the
> pedal box, write back. We'll take care of you!
>
> Dick Taylor
> '73
> Los Angeles
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