Hi,
Best "bang for the buck", eh?
Def. _not_ Weber side drafts. Unless you do a lot of other stuff - I can
quantify this statement if need be.
The answer to your question depends on how you intend to use the car. But
generally, if you want more power, make it breathe better. That means
K&N's, port matching, a good valve job (with a three angle grind), a good
header (not a cheap header - a good one) and a good exhaust (not Monza).
Then free up some weight with an aluminium flywheel, and get rid of some
parasitic load by dumping the crank driven fan and replacing it with an
electric fan. Get the crank balanced and the rods balanced "end to end".
You now have to choose ignition components - Pertronix is okay, but if you
want a "real spark", think about other options like MSD, or Jacobsen, or
Crane (Hi-6) etc. These ignition boxes will give you really good sparc
which will help in making more power. Get a proper coil with whatever
ignition setup you chose.
At this point, you've spent some money and you might see 125 HP at the
flywheel.
If you then want to go after induction, then you can play with carbs. Some
like the ZS's, some like the SU HS6 (or variants) and some like Weber
DCOE's. But in any case, if you go after the carbs, make sure everything
is _perfect_ before you start to play. If you want a reason for that
statement, let me say that it is really easy to spend $500 on Weber jets
for DCOE40's... more than that $$$ is not out of the question, and a
poorly running engine will give lots of "false positive readings" to
various carb tuning parameters. I strongly suggest finding a dyno and
tuner who knows whatever carvs you put on the car - this will save you
money in the long run.
If the car will be a driver and you have the motor apart, don't try to
make more than about 9.5:1 compression or you'll have trouble with pump
gas...
If you want to go crazy, then you can play with cams and valve related
items (cam vernier, lightweight retainers, lightened tappets, big springs,
roller rockers, etc.) but most of this stuff only matters if you are
going for a rev-happy motor. If you want to make this car a racer, then
you can consider the "real performance stuff" like forged pistons, carillo
rods, stainless valves and hardened seats... crazy motors start at $5k and
go up from there - it's really easy to spend $15k on a TR6 motor that
makes lots-o-power.
The real question is: how do you intend to use this baby?
regards,
rml
TR6's CF14111U - Street; CR1871UO - Racer
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