William---I, too, had the water valve diaphragm rupture while on a long,
summer trip. Twice. I sometimes do use the heater when driving on cool,
summer evenings with the top down, so I didn't want to blank off the
water flow here. Instead, I put a shut-off valve between the heater and
the head, so I have an option here, should the new heater control flow
valve ever give up again.
This manual valve is left in the 'open' setting, if or till the time
comes to have to close it. It's a simple, all brass gas type valve that
might be found on a gas dryer, for instance. It's 2" long and has 3/8"
NPT female threads. Also needed to connect this is a 3/8" "short" pipe
nipple, that screws into the head. The thread appears the same as the
heater control valve. Of course the diaphragm has never ruptured since,
so I've had no reason to use this shut-off, other than to test it
periodically for leaks, by opening and closing the 1/4 turn handle. Cost
is less than $5.
It doesn't look too out of place in the engine bay. Photos that include
this valve can be seen in the 6 PACK NEWSLETTER, Vol. XVIII, Issue 4
(Fall, 2000) p. 17.
Dick Taylor
'73
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