Here's an update on my fire and subsequent main wiring harness replacement.
Two Monday's ago I began removing old harness. As I disconnected wires I put a
label on each such as "fuel passenger side" and "fuel drivers side". This was
more than enough to later reconnect everything. For the fuse box and relays in
the engine bay I just made simple line drawings and labelled what wires attached
to what connectors.
Tuesday night I completed removing the old harness. The hardest part was snaking
everything throught to the driver's side so it could be removed from the car. At
one point I got a real sinking feeling in my stomach that said "You're in over
your head". I can't sleep or work if I'm not "happy" with the status of a
project
so as soon as I got the old harness out, I began to install the new. I fed the
engine bay wires through the firewall and loosely strung them to where they
needed to go. I felt better. So far, I had about 4 hours into the project.
Wednesday the insurance adjuster came. He determined that the fire began in the
harness (they don't pay for the cause, only the resulting damage - he determined
this after he had the price of everything that was damaged - the wiring harness
was the most expensive part so it had to be the cause!). I did get re-imbursed
for a headlight switch, high/low beam switch, and choke cable (casing was melted
and cable did not slide well). I also got some money for my labor - 1.5 hours
worth.
Wednesday night began the tug-of-war. The hardest part of the project was
getting
the branches of the harnesss in just the right spot so all the wires would reach
where they needed to go. In the end, the only wire I couldn't connect without
lengthening was the engine bay ground wire that connects to the steering rack. I
had to lengthen it by 4 inches. Everything else fit, but took a lot of
re-adjustement of the harnesses' position.
The new harness, purchased from TRF, was very accurate except there are
different
bulb holders for the small instrument lights and paasenger footwell. As such, I
couldn't re-use the old bulbs and finished the installation without these
lights.
TRF has since sent what they beleive to be the proper bulbs (push-in, like
X-mass
tree lights, instead of threaded-in, as original). I haven't had a chance to
install them yet. All wiring colors were correct though some shades were
different. Not a big deal, it was still obvious what the wire was.
While putting everything back together I found the plastic sheathing of the
choke
cable rubbed hard against the heater box so I slid a piece of fuel line over
that
to protect the cable. I also saw that the heater valve cable rubbed against the
upper heater hose so I also slipped some fuel line over that so I'd have rubber
to rubber contact instead of rubber to metal contact. Replacing the wiring
harness is a great opportunity to replace the firewall grommets, so I did that,
also.
Last Saturday I got the car wired to where I could start it. It started just
fine
and a quick check of the connected circuits showed everything working great.
However, I still hadn't addressed the head light circuit.
I replaced the headlight pigtails and connected the new headlight switch,
however, my high/low beam switch was removed until I can get a new one. It was
literally welded in the low beam position and I have been unable to force it out
of that position. I ran a little jumper wire so my headlights would work in the
low-beam position, and flicked the switch. I had light! I didn't have smoke! I
was happy.
The next thing was the front running light circuit. When I bought the car the
front running lights would blow the fuse so I've driven four years without front
running lights - only headlights and turn signals. I connected one light at a
time to the new harness and flicked the switch each time another light was
connected - they all work! I couldn't have been more happy.
Synopsis:
OK, I wouldn't wish this job on anyone in early spring when the weather is 20
degrees above normal (now that the car's fixed we're below nornal!) and I
wouldn't care to do it again, but I have a perfectly functioning system that
corrected many "little" problems that existed or developed since I bought the
car. My gulp valve is gulping. My front running lights work, my glovebox light
works, by windsheild washer works. My volt gauge doesn't drop to 12 when the
headlights go on. I invested about 25 hours of time in the project. If I did it
again the only thing I'd do defferently would be to take better notes or
pictures
of how the harness was strung behind the dash. I would probably end up with the
same thing I have now, but it would have saved a bunch of head scratching and 5
hours of time.
Now a quick word of caution. I had many "small" problems with my lights, but
they
always worked. Problems included the volt gauge dropping to 12 when the lights
went on. Also, after last year's Trials, I noticed my temp gauge climbed when
the
lights were on. And finally, my headlights flickered occasionally. In hind
sight,
these were all warning signs, not just little problems to be corrected when
convenient. If you car has ANY problems with the headligh circuit correct them
immediately!. This circuit is not fused and if it burns you've got a big,
expensive job ahead of you - assuming you don't loose the whole car.
I couldn't complete this note without another plug for Dan Master's book. It ws
my only reference source for this project and was, as always, indespensible.
Thanks Dan!
So that's it. I'm back on the road and loving it.
Kerry
1974 TR6
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