I don't disagree with any of Dick T.'s comments, but let me add a few
postscripts:
1) There are at least three inter-related variables involved in setting up
the rear end of a TR6, in addition to toe in/out: camber, weight
distribution and ride height.
2) For boulevard use, camber and ride height are probably the most important
. . . for performance, camber and weight distribution take precedence.
3) If you decide to replace the springs, do that before doing anything else
- and make sure you understand what the "fitted length" will be. To maintain
the original ride height, 'fast road' or 'competition' springs should be
shorter than stock because they will not depress as much under load.
4) Once the new springs are installed, use spacers under the springs to
equalize the ride height (rubber spacers are available from the big 3, metal
spacers are available from GoodParts (http://www.goodparts.com/).
5) Finally, use Brian Lonaway's chart (page 38 of the 4/10/00 Moss catalog)
to figure out what changes (if any) you need to make in the trailing arm
brackets to achieve the camber you want.
6) After doing all that, if the weight distribution between the rear wheels
is not equal--and if that matters to you--it's time to think about
installing a pre-loaded sway bar in the rear . . .
jim hill
madison wi
-----Original Message-----
From: tr6taylor@webtv.net
To: hill@mninter.net
Cc: 6pack@autox.team.net
Sent: 2/16/01 1:10 AM
Subject: Re: Negative camber.
Bob---The rear springs tend to sag over time and usage. When that
happens, the camber goes negative. (tire leans in at the top) There are
many ways to bring the camber back 'into spec' and the choice is yours.
Depending how much 'negative' you have will determine what you should
do, if anything. Here are a few:
1) replace both rear springs with either the original style, which will
eventually sag again in a year or three. Alternate, heavier springs are
available.
2) add a 'packing piece' between the spring and the spring perch at the
bottom of each trailing arm. The thickness needed is determined on how
much negative camber you want to dial out.
3) if you like the ride height of your car but just want to 'straighten
out' the wheel/s, you can use the (Brian's) chart as listed in MOSS, as
others mentioned. While changing a bracket or two to the one/s that give
the desired effect can be accomplished this way, it can be a little
intimidating until you actually do it. If your comfortable in working on
suspension parts, this is a good way to get both the ride ht. and the
camber you want.
All of the above parts are sold by the Big Three.
A little negative camber is not a bad thing. (1/4" off vertical or about
3/4 deg.) If the ride got too soft for you along with the change in
camber, you may want to just change the springs, which is easy. You
could still end up with a camber you don't like even after doing this,
although the usual result of a spring change is more towards a positive
camber. (Wheel leans out at the top.) I always thought this to be one
of the more-fun jobs that the enthusiast can do to his or her TR.
Dick T.
CF11143
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