At 09:09 AM 02/13/2001 -0500, you wrote:
>Now I can put the
>remaining piece of the shaft in a vise and tap out what's left of the
>taper pin in order to save the fork.
Jim,
Be sure to look very carefully (bright light and magnifying lens is good)
at the fork structure in the vicinity of the pin, and also the hole where
the pin seats. Mine had a very fine, faint crack started in the body. My
pin was only bent, not yet fractured. So what happened first was probably
the crack, which allowed a little extra space where the pin sits, which let
the pin start to wiggle a bit, which started to "oval" the hole a bit,
which eventually led to incomplete clutch movement.
If that fork seems ok, but has been in there a long time, frankly I would
just toss it into your "used-but-maybe-useable-someday-if
they-ever-become-unavailable" pile, and install a new fork and pin, to go
with your new cross shaft. I like the extra cross-bolt mod, too. And it's
cheap and easy to put in new press-in bushings for the cross-shaft to ride
in which will help eliminate another source of unwanted slop in the system.
ISTR that you should order bushings for the TR3, because they are longer
than the TR6 ones, and give more support through the housing.
In other words, once you are in there, do it all so you don't have to pull
the transmission again too soon. BTDT.
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