Ryan---I'll give the mechanic credit for continuing to try to fix the
disengagement problem with the clutch, esp. at "no charge."
In no particular order, welding the fork to the clutch cross shaft isn't
by itself a terrible thing to do, when done accurately. When all the
parts around this shaft are in good repair, it isn't usually necessary
to remove the shaft for many miles. When the time does come, the shaft
can be merely cut in half, then replaced, along with a new fork.
Changing out the (worn) clevis pin should have helped, IF it was the one
under the clutch pedal. I believe there's still play at the pedal,
either in the pedal bore at the clevis pin, or the cross shaft
(bushings) that carries both the clutch and brake pedals. With your
hand, see how much you can move the pedal before the rod to the clutch
master cylinder actually starts to resist this hand movement. To get
your clutch to disengage properly, ALL of the fluid inside of the clutch
master cyl. must be pushed down to the slave cyl.
On the bleed screw at the slave, this valve should be uppermost, so all
or any air in the system can be bled out.
Trying another mechanic at this time may be in order. Check the above
items first. A new mech. will no doubt charge you all over again, and
rightly so. Try to get some kind of warranty, if you go elsewhere.
Please keep the list advised on the outcome.
Dick Taylor
CF11143
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