Bill---Part one on the timing chain. Yes they can stretch, which would
result in late cam timing. Coupled with the S-2 cam, the engine would
get kind of pokey in the lower rpms, which isn't this cams best suit to
begin with. Chain stretch is easy enough to check, however, without
disassembly of the front cover. I occasionally check mine, and others,
by doing this: Bring the engine timing pulley around so that the
pointer is on one of the hash marks. It doesn't matter which one, as
it's just a reference point. Take the distributor cap off and note the
position of the rotor. Reverse the direction of the engine. (This can be
done by hand by lifting up on a fan blade.) When the timing chain is in
good condition the rotor will follow this reversal immediately, say
within three degrees of crank movement.
Sometimes it's necessary to also take the lost motion out of the
distributor, by turning the rotor counterclockwise by hand, during this
check. If this chain check shows very little lost motion, the
sluggishness you feel could be from other areas. Or you've just gotten
used to the power and want more. Boy, doesn't that feel familiar?!
On to "rear wheel steering." Sooner or later these original, soft
trailing arm bushings will allow the rear wheel(s) to point where they
want. It will show up more on hard acceleration, especially between gear
shifts. To control this, I recommend the poly bushings as replacements.
They are much easier to install, being in two pieces, and don't squish
in the process. If the "kit" doesn't come with its own lubrication
package, use wheel bearing grease, to keep the squeaks out. Also, don't
overtighten the nylon nut/bolt that draws the bracket into the arms of
the trailing arm.
Dick T.
'73
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