Hi Mike,
I used TRF panels in my '6. the were as close as replacement metal ever
gets. When I cut out the floor I left a 1/2" lip of old floor all the way
around each panel. that way I could lay the new floors in place and wire
weld without having to have five hundred clamps.
Regardless what anyone says it is easier (for weekend-pro welders) to make a
overlap weld than a butt weld in thin sheet. I went overboard and made a
continous weld all the way around top and bottom, but an easier way is to
make a series of 1" welds on 2" centers. (you wind up with 1" welds with 1"
spaces between each, proper name "skip weld".) It will be way stronger than
the 'spot welds' the factory used. Be sure to have someone (able bodied
assistant) push the new floor down tight against the lip as you weld to
remove any gap between the two sheets.
When you finish just apply a good seam sealer top and bottom and your ready
to paint.
Dave
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-6pack@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-6pack@autox.team.net]On
Behalf Of Rick@tapco
Sent: Friday, June 09, 2000 8:30 PM
To: 6pack@autox.team.net
Subject: Fw: Floor panels
Hi Mike,
I'm in the process of doing the floors in my 75 right now. I don't know how
serious your rust is but mine is very extensive. If I hadn't had this car
for the past fifteen years it would be suitable for parts only. Of course it
has been driven year round in Maine with tons of road salt with little care.
I'm replacing the floors and the inner and outer sills. Before I started I
was advised to do most of the work with the body on the frame to keep
everything aligned. I've done this but it makes the job quite time
consuming. If your sills are good, cutting out the bad floor sections and
tacking in new ones shouldn't be all that bad. The floor panels came from
Moss along with the sills. The fit is very good and the workmanship just
like the factory. Originally they were ordered from TRF but they were out of
stock. When all is said and done the floors, sills, rear fenders, and the
section with the gas tank fill will all be new. It's taken quite a bit of
time as the front kick panels need repair as well as the A and B posts. The
drivers side ought to be done within a week and I'm hoping that the
passenger's isn't quite as bad. I've taken pictures along the way that can
be posted if anyone is interested.
Let me know if you have any questions.
Rick
rpatton@clinic.net
>Date: Mon, 5 Jun 2000 08:50:20 -0400
>From: "Harmon, Mike" <MHarmon@sces.org>
>Subject: floor panels
>I have 74 TR6 recently purchased. The floors need attention before I can
>put the car on the road. There is a lot of rust and I think replacement
may
>be the best option. What is the best way to remove the floor panels.
>Should I just cut out around the edges and get replacement panels. Does
>anyone know who has the best replacements and the best way to install them?
>Mike H.
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