Craig,
I found the following info for you on the VTR website. the address is
http://www.vtr.org/maintain/zs-tech-tips.html I hope this solves your
problem. The article was written by by Scott Suhring. I haven't don the
procedure, but It seems wise to measure the current position of the metering
needle before disassembly, so that you can return it to its original
position when your done. Especially if you car already runs well. Let us
know how you make out.
Best Regards,
Joseph Garruba
You will at some time experience the persistent lose of damper oil. When
it gets to the point that you need to fill up the guide rod in the damper
assembly every time you check the damper, it is time to replace the O-ring
on the jet adjusting screw. This is an easy job and one that will resolve
the disappearing oil phenomenon you are experiencing by completing the
following instructions:
With the carbs attached to the manifold (no removal required), remove the
suction chamber top cover (you can leave the damper cap attached or remove
first).
By grabbing the exposed guide rod, lift out the air valve straight up so as
not to damage the metering needle.
After draining out any remaining damper oil, proceed to your workbench or
kitchen table (if so permitted in your household).
Using your metering needle adjustment tool, insert the Allen key end into
the guide rod and turn counter-clockwise until the metering needle emerges
from the base of the air valve to its furthest position (you will not be
able to turn the key any further).
Using a small head screwdriver, remove the spring loaded locking screw found
on the side of the air valve.
Grasp the needle and gently pull it out. You cannot remove the needle
without first performing the prior step.
Looking into the metering needle hole, you will see the base of the metering
adjusting screw. Position the air valve so it is standing on the air valve
guide rod (upside down). Using a 1/4" metal rod (8-12" in length), insert
the metal rod into the bottom end so it rests flush against the base of the
needle adjusting screw. Gentle tap down on the end of the rod with a hammer
so that the adjusting screw is driven down and out through the air valve
guide. Note: there is a retaining clip at the top of the adjusting screw
that will also come out.
With the adjusting screw and retaining clip removed, the O-ring will be
visible on the adjusting screw. Remove the O-ring and replace with a new one
(TRF & Moss carry these as part of the carb rebuild kit or you can purchase
separately).
Assembly is the reverse of above. The retaining clip, which goes in the air
valve guide after the adjusting screw, may take numerous tries if you drop
it down the shaft. It will not land level, so you need to get it slightly
tilted and then using the rod tap it down level against the top of the
adjusting screw. Or, you can place it on the top of the adjusting screw when
it is just below flush with the top of the air valve guide and tap both down
the shaft together.
With the adjusting screw in place, insert the metering needle so that the
grove on the side of the base of the needle lines up with the retaining
screw shaft. Insert the spring-loaded retaining screw and screw in. You can
visually see if the end "springs" into the grove of the metering needle by
looking down at the base of the air valve with the needle pointing up. If
the spring-loaded screw is not extended into the grove (this must occur for
the adjusting screw to properly engage and hold the angle of the needle in
the proper position when adjustment of needle height is performed), you will
need to turn the base of the needle to get it to engage. Once engaged, push
down on the key and turn clock-wise to engage the adjusting screw with the
base of the needle and draw the metering needle back up into the shaft.
Appropriate height will need to be adjusted by following mixture adjustment
procedures.
Reassemble air valve and suction chamber top cover. Fill up air valve guide
with appropriate oil to the point that when you insert the damper cap, you
will feel resistance when the base of the damper cap thread is 1/4" from the
top of the cover cap opening. Adjust carbs for proper mixture.
-----Original Message-----
From: RangerCRS <RangerCRS@worldnet.att.net>
To: 6pack@autox.team.net <6pack@autox.team.net>
Date: Tuesday, May 30, 2000 3:45 PM
Subject: Disappearing dashpot oil
>It seems like every time I check the dashpots lately, the level is way
>low. Wheeeeere does this stuff go?? (why do I hear this in Seinfeld's
>voice?).
>Craig, '76
>
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