Bernard,
I took your advice and replaced the o/d ground (earth) wire and
connectors as well as the 12v wire connector and the male terminals on
the solenoid. I never heard a click, but I road tested the car yesterday
and it worked fine, so I feel all is well.
Thanks,
Jim
Bernard Robbins wrote:
>
> Hi Jim,
>
> Most of the problems with the J type are caused by bad wiring. I recommend
> checking the earthing. You should get a definate click when you apply + 12
> Volts.
>
> Try applying the power directly to the solenoid and this will eliminate the
> inhibitor switch (which only let it work in 3rd and 4th). If the solenoid
> clicks, you know the switch is the problem. If it doesn't, you know the
> switch is probably ok.
> I also recommend you check the earth wire from the solenoid to the gearbox
> casing is ok. While you are at it, take your time to clean the spade
> terminals on the switches and solenoid. Replace any dodgy wiring (makes
> life much easier in the future).
>
> On doing up my car, I replaced all the over drive wiring and connectors as
> the old wiring had been damaged by heat oil (yes, my car does leak a little
> oil, but only to mark it's territory!). This has pretty much solved all my
> overdrive problems, so now I only have 99% of the car left to sort out....
>
> I hope this is helpful.
>
> Cheers
> Bernard
>
> 73 TR6 PI
> 71 2500 PI
>
> At 18:02 18/05/00 -0400, Jim Davis wrote:
> >
> >
> >Jim Davis wrote:
> >
> > List,
> > Finally got my engine and transmission installed on CF38690UO. The
> > engine fired right up, which always amazes me considering my lack of
> > mechanical skills. I ran the engine for 20 minutes at 2000 rpm, then
> > timed it at idle the best I could. I installed the Isky Z-19 cam and
> > I'm not sure exactly where it should be until I can road test it.
> > Question, should I change the straight 30w oil now, or wait until
> > I have 500 mi. on the engine? If I change the oil now, replace it with
> > my normal Castrol 20w50?
> > Another question. I was checking out the wiring for the o/d and
> > reverse lamps and while I got about 10v to the solenoid with the
> > trans. in 3rd or 4th, it didn't click. Seems like when I've done this
> > before, I could hear the solenoid energize. Does this mean my solenoid
> > is shot, or do I need to quit worrying and wait to see if it works
> > while the car is in operation?
> > TIA,
> > Jim Davis
> > Fortson, GA
> > CF38690UO
> > CF37325U
> >
> >
> Regards
>
> Bernard Robbins
>
> Installation Department
> NEC New Zealand Ltd
> P.O. Box 1936
> Wellington
>
> Ph (04) 381 6274
> fax (04) 381 6284
> email brobbins@wlg.nec.co.nz
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