Bob,
Here's my two cents worth.
Dick's point about the temp compensators or throttle linkage sounds right
on. It struck me that your previous dieseling problems might also be
related to one of these conditions as either will lead to run on as well.
Here is a quick test to check the integrity of your egr valve diaphragm if
you don't have a vacuum pump.
With the engine off remove the hose to the valve.
Lift the movable diaphragm of the valve carefully with your finger. You
will have to reach inside the lower half of the valve and push up.
While holding the valve up, plug the vacuum port on top. (A wet finger will
do.)
If the valve is leaking, it will return to the fully closed position even
while the port is plugged. If it is good, the valve will stay at least
partially open as long as the port is plugged.
This test will tell you if you have a vacuum leak at the diaphragm, It will
not identify an obstructed egr or one that is stuck open by deposits. Like
Dick said however, I don't see the EGR causing a high idle.
Best Regards,
Joseph Garruba
----------
> From: RedTriumphTr6@aol.com
> To: 6pack@autox.team.net
> Cc: tim.holbrook@astrapharmaceuticals.com
> Subject: dieseling/overheating engine
> Date: Monday, May 08, 2000 5:40 PM
>
> Tim, in reviewing my printed 6pack messages I again noticed your June
> 14,1999 message re your car's dieseling and overheating. You mentioned
that
> the problem started after you adjusted your valves after a recent engine
> modification to increase compression on your car to the same as my 74
1/2,
> 9.5:1. I am curious on how you solved your problems ....especially the
run
> -on. Please contact me. Thanks.
>
Bob
> Pierson
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