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idle problem/rising temp (follow up)

To: 6pack@autox.team.net
Subject: idle problem/rising temp (follow up)
From: RedTriumphTr6@aol.com
Date: Wed, 3 May 2000 11:47:38 EDT
Thanks for the questions, Dick.  This weekend I addressed your concerns and 
now can respond as follows:
     1.  when overheating started:  I recall that after my valves were 
adjusted for the first time after the compression/head/valve work, the guage 
would creep past 1/2 to 3/4, but only at extended idle in hot weather. No 
idle problem then.
     2.and 3. : thermostatic vacuum tubing:  THIS was the culprit...I think.  
I pulled the vacuum hose from the distributor and did not notice the usual 
rise in rpm from 850 to about 1200/1300.  I pulled every vacuum hose and 
connector and cleaned them with a carb cleaner (with the little plastic tube 
high pressure nozzel).  At the same time I removed and cleaned the carbs' 
temperature compensators, after reading Moss Motors' carb troubleshooting 
suggestions in their catalog. (I also had the problem develop this weekend 
with the idle jumping to 3000 to 3500 when I bounced the throttle or put in 
the clutch to shift. )  Now the idle is stable at below 1/2 when driving, and 
1/2 to a little over at idle, and vacuum is again restored.  The rpms also 
are now back to normal when I pop the throttle, which I also cleaned and 
lubed, although it seemed to be fine upon inspection.
     4. radiator cap is rated for 13 lb.    
     5. I do not have a fan shroud that I can see, but I installed the abs 
radiator duct from VBL last summer.
     6. radiator was inspected and "okd" in late '97 in Tuscon, but it sat 
until I picked up the car in late '98....it looks very clean on the outside, 
and the coolant is not showing any signs of rust or discoloration.  Should I 
remove it and have it cored?  Is removal a difficult job?
     7. yes, the car overheated even with the air off.
     8. I really noticed the idle problem and quick overheating after I 
installed a new anti-run on valve and the temperature sending unit (near 
thermostat).  By the way, I also installed a 165 thermostat this weekend, too.
     9, fuel lines were not in contact with anything hot.
     10, I still have some run-on at 850-900 rpm, but not always...about 
every fourth or fifth shut off now.
    
      Thanks for the great suggestions, Dick.  Any thoughts on why the car 
ran hotter with poor vacuum? Or am I assuming too much, and perhaps the temp 
problem was the thermostat all along? It still runs warmer now than it did pri
or to the valve adjustment...between 1/2 and 3/4 at idle, when before 
adjustment it only did that with the air on on a warm dayand otherwise ran at 
1/2. Do you think that the head work or the valve adjustment here caused the 
temp rise? I recall that another 6packer (Tim Holbrook?) wrote about his 
car's temp similarly rising after his first valve adjustment on his higer 
compression engine. I wrote directly to him ( or whoever it was) then last 
summer but got no response. By the way, my temp has never gone above the 3/4 
mark at any time.       Thanks again, Dick.        Bob Pierson
                                                                              
              Carmen Red '74

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