Hi Dave
Have you considered taking the injection unit as well, they can be reliable
once sorted, and this would solve your needle problem.
The most important thing I have come across with an auto box is not to
remove or refit the engine with the torque converter bolted up, this will
apparently damage a seal in the converter. The trick is to fit the torque
converter to the box, bolt the engine in place then line up the hole in the
back plate of the engine with one of the holes in the drive plate, then turn
the gearbox output shaft until one of the fixing holes in the torque
converter appears, start a bolt then turn the engine until the next hole
appears etc, only tighten after all four bolts are started. I also believe
though I have no way to be certain that fitting the engine with the torque
converter fitted to the drive plate is why the drive plates crack.
I don't think it would make the job any easier to remove the box as well,
due to the additional weight (slush pumps are damned heavy), and the problem
of manoeuvring the extra bulk of the combined unit in to place.
Graham.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave W" <dw_triumph@clear.net.nz>
To: <2000-register@yahoogroups.com>; "Triumph mailing list"
<2000-register@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, May 31, 2002 2:42 AM
Subject: 132hp/cam: carb needles
Hi,
I've just bought a '74 2500TC with an over-the-hill motor, so I'm going to
do an engine swap. The new motor I'm getting is out of an
early Mk2 PI (132bhp cam), what would be the best needles for the original
150CDSE Strombergs or should I be thinking about SU's??
Second question, what sort of problems are there when bolting the engine
back onto an auto 'box, the manual says it's easier with
the auto taken out too??
Thanks in advance
Davew
NZ
'68 Mk1 PI Saloon, overdrive.
'74 Mk2 2.5TC Saloon, auto.
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